Why El Nido is worth the long journey
Tucked into the northern tip of Palawan, El Nido town sits face to face with the Bacuit archipelago: a scatter of jagged karst islands that rise straight out of turquoise water like the walls of a drowned fortress. This is the landscape that ends up on Philippine tourism posters, and for once the reality outshines the marketing. Getting here takes effort, which is exactly why the lagoons still feel wild. Budget three to four days minimum; a week lets you add Port Barton and the underground river without rushing.
The island-hopping tours: A, C and the lagoons
Boat tours are the heart of an El Nido stay, and they are standardised across operators into lettered routes. Tour A is the classic: Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Shimizu Island, Secret Lagoon and the Seven Commandos beach, usually with a grilled-fish lunch served on deck, for roughly 1,200-1,400 PHP per person. Renting a kayak to paddle slowly through Big Lagoon, between cliffs that close overhead like a canyon, is the single best thing you can do here.
Tour C is widely considered the most beautiful of them all. It heads further out to Secret Beach, a cove reachable only by swimming through a slot in the rock, the shrine on Matinloc Island and Hidden Beach. If you only have time for two tours, take A and C. Every visitor also pays an eco-tourism development fee of about 200 PHP, valid for several days, so keep the receipt.
Beaches beyond the boats: Nacpan and Las Cabanas
El Nido town beach itself is a working harbour, not a swimming spot, so plan beach time elsewhere. Nacpan Beach, about 45 minutes north by tricycle, is a four-kilometre sweep of golden sand with a handful of bars and far fewer people than its fame suggests. Agree the fare with your driver in advance and ask them to wait, or take a rented scooter. For sunset, locals and travellers alike gather at Las Cabanas, a short ride south of town, where the sun drops behind the outer islands and the beach bars fill up just before six.
On land and further afield
For a different angle on the archipelago, climb Taraw Cliff at dawn. The old scramble has been replaced by a secured via ferrata route with a guide, and the view over the bay at sunrise justifies the early alarm. Day trips also run southwest to Port Barton, a sleepy village with excellent snorkelling, and many travellers combine El Nido with the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, a UNESCO World Heritage site where a paddle boat glides through a cathedral-like cave system. The river is most easily visited on the way in or out of Puerto Princesa rather than as a long day trip from El Nido.
Where to stay and eat
Accommodation splits into three zones. The town centre puts you within walking distance of the pier, dive shops and restaurants, at the price of early-morning boat noise. Corong-Corong, one bay south, trades convenience for sunset views and quieter nights. Nacpan and Lio host the resorts for travellers who want the beach at their doorstep. Food in town is better than its backpacker reputation suggests: expect fresh grilled seafood, Filipino classics like kinilaw and sisig, and a growing crop of coffee shops. A solid dinner for two rarely tops 1,000 PHP outside the resorts.
Practical guide: getting there, money, season
Most travellers fly into Puerto Princesa and continue by shared van, five to six hours on a winding but fully paved road for a few hundred pesos. The alternative is a direct flight to Lio airport just outside El Nido, dramatically faster but noticeably more expensive. Two practical warnings save the most headaches here:
- Cash rules. ATMs in town are few and unreliable, so bring enough pesos from Puerto Princesa or Manila.
- Dry season runs December to May; that is lagoon weather. In the wet months tours still run, but cancellations happen.
- Book Tours A and C a day ahead in high season, and confirm pick-up times the evening before.
Give El Nido the time it deserves. Three days covers the highlights, four lets you breathe, and the boat ride through Bacuit Bay will stay with you long after the tan fades.